This article appeared originally in Hunter & Coastal Lifestyle Magazine
by Kasia Sobiesiak [October 2024]
At the end of winter, you’ll see me excited. I have a spring in my step. The new season is coming. Fresh air. Blossoming trees. Sipping wine in the sun. All comes back to life, even though it’s hard to imagine that much goes to sleep and hibernates completely through wintertime in the majority of Australia.
Luckily, it’s cold enough in places like the subtropical Hunter for vines to get their winter dormancy with average temperatures below 10°C. Spring is a fresh start, metaphorically or not. With that, thinking of freshness in wine can be at least two-fold.
First, the actual aromas and flavours that spring to mind are green herbs, aromatic blossoms, juicy citrus, crunchy stone fruit, mouthwatering acidity, and lingering ‘minerality’. However, freshness comes in many other shapes and forms. It’s a state of mind, an approach, a progressive thought and avant-garde methods of vine growing and wine production.
Old styles stretched to new extremes, taken out of their well-fitted comfortable boxes. Think of textural expressions, unconventional blends making gastronomic table wines and alternative varieties. I’m constantly on the lookout for drops left of centre, new cool kids on the block or simply deliciously fresh wines with high drinkability.
So here they are. A snapshot of recently discovered drops that will expeditiously spring you into the newest of the seasons.
Sabi Wabi Pétillant Naturel 2024 | $35
Nothing else says freshness and liveliness quite as fizz. This is an ultra-crisp, lightly cloudy and textural, fun and zingy naturally sparkling wine (French pétillant naturel) made from Semillon by Peta Kotz of Sabi Wabi. Unfined and preservative-free, it’s a different take on the Hunter classic. Semillon’s varietal characteristics of citrus, apples, melon skin, lemongrass and chamomile have a natural affinity to bubbles making it the ultimate fresh offering.
Thomas Wines Like a Version Braemore Semillon 2023 | $35
Like a Version has been crafted in collaboration with guest winemakers from other regions for the past few years. For 2023, it was Andrew Thomas’ son, Daniel, working with Reid Bosward of Barossa Valley. The grapes come from the Braemore Vineyard planted in 1969 and are made into ‘a left field/cover version’ of the more classically styled Braemore Semillon. Set to be more savoury and textural than its traditional impersonation, making it a great spring drink. Be on the lookout for the 2024 version of the Version—it’s coming soon!
M&J Becker Hunter Valley White 2023 | $35
Meagan and James Becker work with unique vineyards from around NSW and California, sourcing fruit from organic sites and applying low-intervention winemaking. This Hunter dry white is a field blend of Semillon, Schonberger and Gewurztraminer. It’s a jazzed-up Semillon if you will. Frangipani, white stone fruit, a gentle cashew nuttiness, crunchy pear and fennel. There’s a hint of sweetness in the perfume, but it’s all truly dry, light and refreshing, slightly textural and very easy to sip on and on and on…
Wild Ren Wines Rosé 2023 | $30
If you don’t know it yet, Renee ‘Ren’ Burton, previous owner and co-founder of Gundog Estate has taken on a new challenge a few years back and set up her own label—Wild Ren Wines. The whole of her portfolio speaks freshness along with a skin-contact Semillon and gin! Ren’s rosé is perfect for all seasons but it reminds of spring in particular with cherry blossoms, rose water, strawberries, light yoghurty creaminess and a crisp dry finish. Made from 100% Merlot from a premium vineyard on Oakey Creek Road.
Pokolbin Vintners Pokolbin Mountain Dry Red 2023 | $53
This first-ever, special bottling made by Brendan ‘Kaz’ Kaczorowski (winemaker at Keith Tulloch Wine) comes from red clay soils full of fossils on the slopes of Pokolbin Mountain planted in 1972 and grown by Ian Tinkler. It’s 100% Shiraz of a medium body, a pleasant sandy texture, dark chocolate tannins and freshly polished leather built on ripe red and black fruit. Dry, succulent, perfumed and with just enough weight, it will add a lift and a gentle warmth to sporadic chilly evenings this spring. Say less, drink more of this.
Aeon Alluvium 2023 | $45
Aeon is ‘Wines of Earth & Sky’ a new, exciting project from Kenisha and Alisdair Tulloch. Tulloch’s name needs no introduction in the Valley (and beyond), and this is a new generation’s take on well-established knowledge and vineyards. This is a true field blend of Syrah, Touriga Nacional, Viognier plus a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon, all handpicked and fermented together. It has violets, blackcurrant leaf, blueberries, salty black liquorice and mint chocolate. Fresh all up! It’s medium-bodied with stony tannins and a beautifully cleansing acidity. And you must try the other two from the range.
My Wine Adviser 