This article appeared originally in Hunter & Coastal Lifestyle Magazine
by Kasia Sobiesiak [February 2024]
Forget Semillon for a moment. Hunter winemakers have a reservoir of fresh crisp alternatives on offer this summer.
The almost tropical climate of the Valley and continually warming weather patterns globally call for varieties that are well-adapted to similar conditions in regions around the world. These grapes are not afraid of extensive heat or drought, and they continue to ripen happily with no loss to their natural high acidity. They are also resistant to diseases induced by rain and proximity to the ocean or sea.
Sounds perfect for the Hunter but where in the world is it mirrored?
First, think of warm regions like the Mediterranean basin, the south of France, central and southern Italy and the Iberian Peninsula with its Atlantic shores. Now, consider the Hunter Valley. It’s hot and humid, with summer daytime temperatures regularly exceeding 30°C with some cooling (and moist) ocean breezes.
So what are the varieties? The answer lies in Pecorino, Albariño, Verdelho, Fiano and Picpoul Blanc. And while the classic whites of the region grow well in their environment, it’s both a pressing time for planting other varieties with a view to the future and an exciting time to be tasting the delicious wines they produce.
Lucky, you don’t need to spend $3000 on a return ticket to Montpellier or Rome to try any of these, Hunter winemakers have got you covered for two zeros less and right at your doorstep.
The Little Wine Company Pecorino 2023 | $26
Winemakers Ian and Suzanne Little were one of the first Pecorino producers in Australia. They noticed that it grows well in the Hunter holding flavour and acidity during the warmer months of summer, it’s also drought-resistant. They decided to ferment it in stainless steel at low temperatures to preserve freshness and age it for 10 weeks on lees to add texture. It’s crisp, in the lemon and peach spectrum, with a hint of gunpowder, oregano and white pepper spice. The texture is king here, subtly nutty, creamy and salty.
Briar Ridge Albariño 2023 | $35
Originating from Rías Baixas in the Galician region of North West Spain, Albariño loves a warm maritime climate, no wonder it does well in the Hunter. This one was skilfully crafted by Alex Beckett. A combination of stainless steel and oak barrels was used for the purity of fruit and gentle texture. It’s full of orange blossom, nectarine, peach, sour yoghurt, and pink grapefruit. Plenty of salt and nuttiness on the palate. It finishes on a mandarin oil note and bitter herb tang. Ticks the boxes of good energy and refreshment.
De Iuliis Estate Verdelho 2023 | $28
Verdelho, a Portuguese variety is believed to originate from the island of Madeira. Planted in the Hunter in the 1820s it was widely used for the production of fortified wines—the fashion of the day. The grapes have thick skins so Verdelho is both drought-resistant and wet-weather-tolerant. Made by Mike De Iuliis and Emily Glover, this Hunter Verdelho is full of ripe tropical flavours. Think pineapple and guava, crisp acidity and minty freshness to finish. Perfect table white.
Mount Pleasant Light Dry White 2023 | $36
A new addition to Mount Pleasant’s bottlings, a Light Dry White. It’s a blend of Fiano, a high acid cognac variety—Montils from original O’Shea’s planting and old vine Semillon. Adrian Sparks goes back to the roots following Maurice’s forte of wine blending by making his own compositions these days. LDW is a good mix of orchard fruit, like red apple, quince and peach, add green melon and a refreshing lift of chamomile. Flavours are perfectly balanced with fruity weight, acidic lift and subtle saltiness.
Mercer Wines Picpoul Blanc 2023 | $30
This is a bonus wine, made by Hunter winemakers but grown in Central Ranges’ Canowindra vineyard. It’s a Mediterranean, sunshine-loving Picpoul Blanc originating from the Languedoc in the south of France. Aaron Mercer and Kiri Irving made a stellar version of this variety for the first time this year. Loaded with fresh citrus, crunchy cucumber and white blossoms. It’s very light and utterly refreshing. Interestingly, it has a Hunter’s Semillon softness of acidity. How cool!
My Wine Adviser 