This article appeared originally in Hunter & Coastal Lifestyle Magazine
by Kasia Sobiesiak [April 2024]
There will be a time when we get back to the good old Hunter classics but for now, let’s venture into the world of wines that defy tradition, embrace the unconventional, and are perhaps overlooked. Shall we?
Think ‘Hunter wine’ and what comes to mind are ethereal young Semillons and their curiously matured versions, delightfully fragrant Shirazes, charming Pinots and quaint Chardonnays. We know where the reliable classics fit and very comfortably. But what else is there? The alternatives quietly win many of my daily wine choices. Take one step to the left and discover great value fizz, textural rosés, off-dry whites and climate-adaptable reds.
First off, a bubbly that offers the lightness and fruitiness of Prosecco-styled wines and the gentle complexities of a traditionally made sparkler. The one here is a Chardonnay but you can find a fizzy Semillon too. Just look for it.
The underappreciated stickies are made year in, year out. The Hunter grows some of the oldest Verdelho vines, once notoriously made into sweet styles mimicking the great fortifieds of Madeira. These days may be gone but off-dry Semillons are very present. Grab one.
Rosé with a depth of flavour, colour, savouriness and a wild edge is a food- matching winner. The trick is to seek the unfined, unfiltered version, often made with extended skin contact. Give it a go.
Ditch the internationally recognised French grapes and get into the unusual and the unexpected. Not so emerging anymore, yet still not mainstream, Italian and Iberian grapes are exciting alternatives to Shiraz. Just do it!
Mercer Wines PF Fizz 2023 | $24
Aaron Mercer and Kiri Irving based in the Hunter play with Central Ranges Chardonnay to make this preservative-free sparkling wine. Green apple, white crunchy nectarine, a pinch of salt with creamy foamy bubbles and a hint of toffee apple and almonds. Great citrusy acidity makes it, dare I say it, a baby Blanc de Blancs style. And it’s great value!
Brokenwood Late Picked Semillon 2022 | $35
Swap your regular choice of Singha, Tsingtao or Cass next time you tuck into spicy hot Asian food with this beauty. Low alcohol, residual sweetness, and a very important—hyper refreshing acidity—are all here. This one has green papaya, underripe mango, basil leaf, sweet mint and candied lime peel. Uncomplicated and pure fruit. Have it with Thai cuisine.
Harkham Wines Alchimie Rosé 2022 | $30
The hands-off approach to winemaking at Harkham Wines will get you that individualist rosé of texture, umami and wilderness. Aromas appear to be a touch sweet but it’s full-on savoury and mostly citrus-driven with flint, dried herbs, nuts and salty pastry. It’s a perfect autumnal sunset wine.
The Little Wine Company Sangiovese 2021 | $35
Ian and Suzanne Little champion Spanish and Italian varieties in the Hunter. Their Sangio has a vibrant bouquet of rose petals, almond blossom and dusty lavender. It’s full of tart and bright cherries and cranberries. The pomegranate tension holds tightly finely textured tannins. It has a truly Italian DNA and a uniquely Hunter personality.
Dalwood Estate Tempranillo Touriga 2022 | $45
Bryan Currie made sure the two Iberian and climate-adapted varieties complemented each other perfectly creating this medium-bodied blend. It’s a mix of black fruit, cloves and a lick of vanilla with leafy freshness and ripe, soft, coffee-choc tannins. It’s savoury with a salty liquorice aftertaste. Lots on offer here, and very tasty.
My Wine Adviser 