This article appeared originally on The Wine Front

Posted on 01 March 2023 by Kasia Sobiesiak

A combination of Egyptian and cerulean shades of blue, with gold, illuminated signs of nature, growth, inspiration and love. Alchemical symbols for the four seasons tucked away in the corners of the esoteric label. It was designed by the artist Tim Winters. Sadly, many may not be very familiar with this distinctive label and the label will be no more soon. Jonathon Mattick shows me the new design. It’s pretty! Elegant, minimalistic and it draws on the previous artistic concept. The old one is too polarising, some love it, some hate it, he mentions. I belong to the former group and quietly ask him to keep it, but have a feeling I’ll lose. Jonathon then takes me on a tour of his recently purchased Canobolas winery in Orange. It was planted in 1986 by Murray Smith. It really is a change of an era when a wine gets a new label (and an owner) after 36 years. The vineyard is dry-grown, close-planted, on rich volcanic soils, terra rossa, at 850m altitude. First vintage was 1989 but only for Chardonnay, then 1991 was in full swing for other varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Murray stepped away and it wasn’t easy to let go, so I’m told. Years of memories; it’s understandable. Now, Jonathon focuses on organic growing with plans for going biodynamic too. We walk into the untouched cellar door and it’s filled with artifacts, old viticultural books, wine trophies and medals, vintage photographs, paintings… Dusty brick walls, a fireplace and windows overlooking hills with vines. A place with a soul. And they have wine too! Jonathon shares with me some of the Murray-era wines, Shine Chardonnay and Alchemy Bordeaux style blend that won many accolades in the 90s and early 2000s. We also decide on his first blend of Chardonnay, amongst reds and a rose. Let me tell you, some very exciting times coming at Canobolas Wines (new winery name). Watch this space.

Mount Canobolas is an extinct volcano and the name comes from the Wiradjuri tribe which translates into “two shoulders”.

2012 Shine Chardonnay
William Rikard-Bell worked during this time with Murray Smith and it’s safe to say, he made this wine. It smells very appealing, undoubtedly a Chardonnay, filled with citrus skins, hazelnuts, baked pear with cloves, almond meal and hints of marzipan. This may seem overly sweet or rich but it’s not, it’s rather elegant and subtle. There’s a hint of creaminess on the palate but it’s mostly tight and fine, crisp and refreshing still. Lemon curd, silky yoghurt texture in mid-palate that reminds me, along with focused, driving acidity, of 1er cru Chablis. 94, 2023-2030, 13%, $70

2014 Shine Chardonnay
I’m told, this one is probably a bit more influenced by oak (approx. 40% new and toasty), more ripeness and therefore more of a Murray-style winemaking. Indeed, it feels riper and richer than the 2012 Shine with rockmelon and some other underripe tropical fruits. It’s full in body, with a creamy round mouthfeel, heavy exotic spice, like nutmeg, cinnamon, star anise. Weighty mid-palate with yellow grapefruit tang but not bitter, more sour and lifted. Long finish. Even though I do appreciate lighter styles, this has a lot of power and intensity that will develop a little more, I believe. 93+, 2023-2033, 14%, $70

2015 Wild Yeast Chardonnay
In 2015 Shine was not produced, so a slightly different Chardonnay was made under a different label and title. It was a warm year and the fruit came from the whole property as opposed to the Shine blend where parcels and barrels would have been selected. It has lifted florals, almond blossom and honeyed yellow flowers to start. Then ripe citrus, stone fruit too, feels rich and in a way fruit forward, not quite butterscotch but brushing on it and a little phenolic grip, adding interest to the spicy-sour texture. Grilled nuts appear here too. It’s definitely a different expression from Shine. Charming in a way. 92, 2023-2028, 13.5%, $55

1991 Cabernet [sic]
This is most likely 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Most likely as not much data was recorded by Murry in the past. Starts with violets, roses and cherry blossoms. It surprises with lots of freshness still lingering and lifting the wine. Very fragrant. Then comes milk chocolate praline, allspice and a touch of truffle/fresh leather scents of inevitable development after 32 years. It has red currants, cranberries, licks of dusty tannins and acidity that holds it all together. Tight and taut. Heaps of energy and vibrancy in the fruit, remarkably fresh and vivant. So surprising. Dark chocolate finish. I want to say, it will develop more or can be kept, but it’s a risky game and it drinks beautifully now if you’re lucky to have it in your cellar. 95, cork, 13.1%, 2023-2033

2001 Cabernets [sic]
50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This is a different animal from the 10 years older brother. Dark-fruited, meaty, dense and heavier than the ‘91. Dark cherry and dark blood plum, chocolate and slightly salty liquorice, cocoa powder tannin and finish. Rosemary and basil notes, but nothing green, more dried and savoury. Despite richer, denser perfume, it’s medium-bodied with lingering dark fruit, coffee chocolate and a touch of peppery spice. 93+, 13.5%, 2023-2033

2009 Alchemy
Top of the range red blend, composed of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Cabernet Franc and 10% Shiraz. It’s meaty, full in aromas, with plush sweet berries, velvety tannins, coffee beans and leather, earthy elements. Shiraz nuance comes through as sweet herbs and barbecue meat, with peppery spice on the palate. More of the sweet cherry oak, liquorice and ground coffee follow. Mid-palate weight shines. It’s a full-bodied, complete, well-balanced red blend in a great spot now. 94, 14%, 2023-2030

The 2010 Cabernets blend was held in tanks for 8 years, bottled in 2018 and started selling in 2021. I believe it’s available for purchase now at $45.